the skulls that may have flown the jolly roger

St Nicholas Church, Deptford

FreeHidden gem
Deptford · Deptford

A riverside Deptford church with chilling skull-and-crossbones gate carvings, said to be Deptford's link to the Jolly Roger.

Getting there. On Deptford Green near the river, a short walk from Deptford station.
Free historic church
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Deptford · Deptford
LONDON FREE GUIDE

The lowdown

Guarding the gateposts of this old Deptford church are two carved stone skulls, grinning over crossed bones, a stark memento mori warning all who enter to remember death. Deptford was a great naval dockyard, and legend has it these very skulls may have inspired the pirates' Jolly Roger flag.

The playwright Christopher Marlowe was buried in an unmarked grave in the churchyard after his mysterious killing nearby in 1593. Battered by the Blitz and lovingly patched up, the church and its eerie gate are free to find, a genuinely gothic corner of riverside south-east London.

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The carved skulls sit atop the churchyard gateposts, so look up as you go in. A plaque in the churchyard remembers Christopher Marlowe, buried here after his still-debated death in Deptford.
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