byzantium hiding behind victoria

Westminster Cathedral

Free
Victoria · Victoria

England's principal Catholic cathedral, a soaring Byzantine fantasy of striped brick and shimmering mosaics, free to enter.

Getting there. On Victoria Street, a couple of minutes from Victoria station.
Westminster Cathedral

The lowdown

Often confused with the Abbey, Westminster Cathedral is something else entirely, the mother church of Catholic England, built in a wildly exotic Byzantine style of candy-striped red brick and white stone that looks transported from Istanbul or Ravenna. It is free to walk into, and the contrast with the bright street outside is startling.

Inside, the lower walls glow with marble and gold mosaics, while the upper reaches remain deliberately dark, bare brick blackened by candle smoke, the decoration left unfinished for over a century. Eric Gill's celebrated Stations of the Cross line the nave, stark and modern.

It is one of London's most atmospheric free interiors, hushed and incense-scented. A lift up the campanile tower charges a small fee for the view, but simply stepping inside the cathedral costs nothing and is the real wonder.

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Walk right up to the front to see the glittering mosaics in the side chapels and Eric Gill's stark Stations of the Cross. The bare brick of the unfinished upper walls is part of the drama, not a fault, so look up.
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